resurrect an old wheelbarrow

by:ZHENHUA     2020-03-20
An old cart was used to dump the garbage. . .
Most of the paint came off and the tires were completely out of gas, but the structure was reasonable, so I dragged it home and it was the second chance in my life.
I fixed this at TechShop. The dis-
Assembly is actually the most difficult aspect of the whole project.
The carts are secured together with transport bolts, which means that they have a nut on the thread end, but there is no hexagon head, and the Bolts have a low-key dome, so they won\'t get stuck whether you load onto the trolley.
They depend on a small square part of the shaft under the head of the bolt to prevent the bolt from rotating when tightening or loosening the nut.
The nut on the Bolt is already very rusty, so the first thing is to apply some PB-
Blasting each nut to help relax.
After having them sit for a night, most of the bolts fall off easily.
A deep socket wrench is needed to get two nuts that are placed in a metal slot and too narrow for a crescent wrench.
Some stubborn nuts are stuck so that they distort the bolts that the square part of the bolts peel off the wood or metal embedded in the bolts.
When torque is applied on the nut, this leaves nothing to prevent the bolt from spinning freely.
In addition to a stuck bolt, I can clamp the edges of all the bolts with a pair of Vise and fix the bolts in place while removing the nuts.
Last nut/Bolt pair for non
Destructive extraction, so I cut the bolts with a angle grinder.
If you have to go back to this method, cut the nut and not the head of the bolt.
The square part of the bolt is located below the surface of the material, so even if you grind out the whole head, it will prevent the removal of the bolt.
If you\'re going to re-
When reassembling the carts, use any old rusty bolts and start soaking them in the rust remover now.
Wheels are usually as manypart assembly.
The version I am using is a tubeless wheel consisting of an axle, two bearings, a hub, a tire and a valve lever.
Remove the tire from the hub.
It may take some work.
We can buy some plastic levers to help with the process, but a couple of screwdrivers will do a good job because we are repainting everything.
If there is air in the tire, press the center of the valve lever to release the pressure.
Once the air is released, the Wall pushing the tire should separate it from the hub.
This is called broken beads.
Once the tire ring breaks, insert a screwdriver between the tire and the hub, and then pull the handle of the screwdriver to the middle of the hub.
This will pull a small pocket of the tire on the lips of the hub.
Repeat this with the second screwdriver, a few inches on the side of the first screwdriver.
More tires will be pulled out of the hub.
Repeat as needed, if moving one of the first two drives causes the lips to slide back to the Hub, a third drive may be used.
Once you release one side of the tire, repeat the process with the second side of the tire, but pull the second side of the tire down from the same side of the Hub!
Otherwise, you end up with a tire that completely surrounds the hub, which is not fun at all.
Normally, once the wheel is removed from the frame of the trolley from the bolt, the axle will slide out the bearing directly.
Once the shaft is removed, a long screwdriver or similar tool can be poked into the inside of the hub, positioned on the bearing on the opposite side of the hub, and hit the bearing with a hammer.
If the old bearing has been caught and no longer rotates freely, the bearing needs to be removed.
Replacement bearings can be ordered online.
I can\'t find it in the local store.
Removing the bearing also makes it easier to clean and paint the hub even if you intend to continue using the old bearing.
In this case, the rust is too large, and even the sledgehammer cannot move the axel without damaging the hub.
The bearing has also been blown, no longer turning (
The shaft will be turned in the bracket attached to the frame, resulting in an impious grinding Scream).
They often sell replacement wheels in your local home improvement store, but they don\'t have any axes in my store, so I can\'t use them without making new ones.
I have integrated Axel, bearings and hubs.
Dousing the bearing in PB Blaster, clamping the axle firmly in the vise, twisting the wheel back and forth with hands, and I was able to release the bearing eventually.
They are still a bit rough, but the wheel rotates about three times if it is rotated by hand.
It feels like there is a piece of rust on a bearing, so I bet it will be more loose with use.
To properly clean and re-paint the hub, the valve lever needs to be removed.
No more coaxing can get it out of the hub, so cutting it off is the only option.
I bought a replacement at the local auto parts store.
Use the wire brush wheel on the angle mill, check each metal part to remove any loose rust and paint.
Always use eye, ear and breath protection.
I left the inside of the bucket alone because it was coated with cement and I was going to mix the cement in it as well.
It would be a big grind if there was a lot of extra dust and very little return.
Once you have removed all the loose garbage on the metal using a grinder to remove deep oxidation, even after using a grinder, deep oxidation will see hard black deposits on the metal surface.
Once cleaned properly, these areas will look like a very small pit.
If you leave any oxidation areas, they will continue to rust even after re-painting.
If your bushing is still attached to your wheels, be sure to cover them with tape to prevent sand and grind dust.
Once you have cleared all the corrosion, you need to protect the newly exposed metal from a similar fate.
There are several ways to protect the metal, but I chose the powder coating because of its ease of application and durability.
If you are unable to use the powder coating equipment, you can find a replacement for brushes and spray cans at your local hardware store.
If you need to clean the metal surface before applying the protective coating, make sure to dry immediately, otherwise the metal will rust immediately.
I found a compressed air gun coming out soon.
It is free to dry even on very rough, pitted surfaces.
If you are unable to remove the bearing from the wheel, be sure to shield the wheel bearing joint.
This will keep the paint away from the bearings that may cause the wheels to get stuck.
Now put everything back the way it was.
You did notice how it came together, right?
Push the valve lever into the hole of the hub.
Clean the tires, especially where the tires fit with the hub.
Throw the tire back on the wheel hub.
This should be a lot easier than taking off and no special tools are needed.
If you do need to use some extra lever to reopen it, be sure to use plastic tools to avoid contamination with your new paint work.
If you remove the bearings, push them back to the hub and reinstall the shaft connecting the front bracket, which helps to control the wooden guide rail when assembling the rest of the \"trolley.
Slide the foot under the rails, place the bucket on top, then bolt through the four holes at the bottom of the bucket, through the wooden rails and through the metal footrest.
Connect the front braces to the bucket, then flip the whole thing over to make the final bolt connection on the wheel, which will also be fixed to the bottom of the front braces on the bucket.
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