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home clinic; q. & a.: aligning a door latch bolt
1987 This is a digital version of an article from The Times Print Archive, before it starts online in 1996.
To keep these articles as they appear initially, the Times will not change, edit, or update them.
There are occasional copywriting errors or other problems during the digitization process.
Please send a report of such issues to archid_feedback @ nytimes. com. Q.
Since we made some alterations on the first floor of our home, the door to the second floor bedroom will not remain closed when we close it.
The door is closed and does not rub or stick together, but the lock does not seem to engage --
In other words, the latch does not appear to be stuck on the opening of the metal plate on the door frame.
So we have to put a book on the floor on the inside of the door to prevent it from opening on its own at night.
Could you please advise if there is any problem? What can I do to correct this? A.
In my opinion, the latch seems to be inconsistent with the opening in the strike plate.
It may be the distortion of the door frame that caused the door to deviate from the route.
If this is the problem, it is not difficult to deal with it.
Close the door from inside and squat down so your eyes are the same as the lock.
Shine a Light in the space between the door and the frame.
Try and see how the latch is out of the home clinic
It will usually be a little too high or too low.
If the gap between the door edge and the door frame is not wide enough to allow you to see this easily, please open the door a little until you can see where the latch is touching.
Mark the plate with a pen to indicate the position of the top and bottom contact of the latch bolt, and then open the door completely to see if these marks indicate the tap-
The plate opening is too high or too low.
As shown, then, after cutting out the groove behind it using a sharp chisel, you can remove the strike plate and move it up and down.
You will also have to expand the holes in the wood behind the impact plate opening and bolt through the metal opening. Q.
New tile floors in our kitchen have grooves to collect dirt.
To keep it clean, I have to scrub the tiles by hand with a hard brush.
To avoid this, I would like to apply a plastic coating on this tile.
I want to do the job. I have to wear a lot of clothes.
Do you know what coating I can use? AdvertisementA.
It sounds like you want the plastic coating to fill the groove and give you a smooth, easier-to-
Clean finish but I doubt if the coating helps.
Most likely it will never be thick enough to fill in the groove or smooth texture.
The coating will pile up at high points and low points and will also make the tiles yellow or discolored.
I\'m afraid the only permanent solution for you is to remove the old tiles and cover them again.
Or you can lay a layer on the old tile and put down the new one. AdvertisementQ.
Although we have lived in our house for a long time, until the last two years our cellar has been flooded after every heavy rain or continuous rain.
The sewage pump does not work unless the rain lasts more than one day.
There are a lot of buildings within a few hundred yards of our hotel, which may have caused our flood problems by interfering with the natural drainage of the area.
Do you know why flooding has been a problem for the last few years? What can we do about this at a reasonable cost? A.
It is impossible to tell the reasons for the increase in floods;
There\'s probably just more-than-
Average rainfall in your area
In any case, when the ground is saturated, it usually takes a day for enough water to penetrate into the basement to activate the sewage pump, so it\'s not surprising.
However, in addition to the sewage pump, it sounds like you need to install the drainage system in the basement.
The cheapest system is like a hollow substrate that extends around the perimeter of the basement floor.
One such system is the beaver system, manufactured by the basement water control company at 890 St. Hersey StreetPaul, Minn. 55114.
The other is the basement.
In the New York area, the watering system is provided through Buzzano contracting in Newtown, Connecticut. Phone 203-426-7196. Q.
My mother lives in an apartment building over 65 years old.
Obviously, the original practice of the builder was to paint the plaster ceiling with calcimine.
Later, when the apartment was redecorated, the paint flaked every time the painters painted on these ceilings, and the flaking and flaking of the paint was still an ongoing problem.
Is there any solution to this problem?
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View all New York Times newsletters. A.
There are several ways to solve this problem.
Calciminine is still sensitive to water and softens when wet, so peeling is a common problem when using latex paint.
If the size of the glue is used on calcimine, and so on, this is another common practice many years ago.
The best solution for this stripping
The paint problem is to peel all the old paint off onto the plaster with chemical paint and varnish remover.
The exposed plaster is then scrubbed with hot water and detergent to remove any residual calcium methyl amine.
Wait a few days for the plaster to dry, and then apply a layer of an alcohol primer.
You can then paint with any type of flat paint.
Another way that sometimes works is to first scrape off all the loose or peeling paint and then scrape off the spots and sand if necessary.
Then apply a layer of mellow and sour paint-
Primer (not latex)
Behind is a layer of oil or alcohol-base flat.
There\'s another option.
And almost always works.
It is to scrape off all loose peeling or peeling paint, and then hang a hanger on the ceiling with canvas.
This can be painted like plaster. Q.
Last spring, we walked in front of us with all the used bricks.
The trouble is that the road is slippery and we are afraid of a lawsuit if someone falls.
Can you suggest what we do? A.
Usually, walks made of red bricks, especially used bricks, do not slide even when they are wet.
In my opinion, you may have grown some moss or algae, which will make them smooth when they are wet.
If this is the problem, wash it off with mildew proof (
For sale in swimming
Or wash a gallon of water with a glass of Clorox solution and it should be possible to remove moss and solve your problem.
Another possibility is that your walk is made of a brick with a smooth or smooth surface;
It will be slippery when wet.
If so, etching the surface with muriatic acid should solve this problem.
Dilute the acid with water in the plastic bucket according to the instructions on the package (
Usually one sour to three or four portions of water)
And then mop the brick with a large brush.
Place it for about 10 or 15 minutes and rinse it clean with plenty of water.
When mixing and applying acid, be sure to wear rubber gloves and rubber boots when working.
Acid kills plants and grass, so be careful not to splash it near. Q.
Last spring we replaced all the floors on the deck with pressuretreated cedar.
We were told that Wood weather was allowed for one year without any treatment, so we did.
But now we want to hear your advice.
The deck is on the north side of the house, and part of it will never bask in the sun, so there is some mildew.
What can we put on this deck to keep the wood, maybe a little stain on the wood? A.
You should scrub the entire deck with a good detergent or a special wood cleaner and brightener for this purpose.
Areas with mildew should be treated with a solution of laundry bleach and water (
A cup of bleach to a gallon of water).
Drag this down, dry it, and rinse it clean.
Now cover with decorative stains containing water
Do not use stains designed for siding or wooden tiles;
Use one specifically for the deck.
Advertising questions about house repairs should be submitted to Bernard Gladstone of The New York Times, 229 West 43d Street, New YorkY. 10036.
This column will answer questions of general interest;
Unpublished letters cannot be answered separately.
A version of this article was printed on page NJ11 of the National edition on August 2, 1987, with the title: Family Clinic; Q. & A.
: Align the latch bolts.